Our Approach to Quality Cupping
A short essay on our cupping approach by our cupper EJ Dawson
OK,
after consulting the internet I have come to the conclusion that too
much information can be hazardous to your cupping health. Meaning, that
the more technical and scientific the light you shed on a subject, the
more difficult one can make a relatively easy process. For reasons both
good and true, science has dissected and broken down coffee cupping to a
seemingly endless outline chart (like a family tree) of nuances and
causes, and while impressive on paper, digital monitors and colourful
posters it can serve to intimidate and possibly frighten a newbie
developing coffee taster.
Although
I can speak and understand near fluent coffee science geek (It’s kind
of like speaking Vulcan), and understand things like endothermic and
pyrolysis developing processes and the Maillard reaction browning
process, it actually helps me to focus on tasting task at hand if I
blank the slate out of these elements and go to my happy tasting place
which consists of things I understand more than science... things like
stereo systems, symphonies, car radios, and my memories of being a kid
who grew up in the woods of New England and had my share of mouthfuls of
nature.
Coffee,
to me is supposed to be consumed and enjoyed. I would rather sit by a
window and drink a great cup of coffee peacefully and happily, enjoying
its nuances with simple thoughts such as “this is really good”, or “man,
the berry notes in this are great” rather than having thoughts like
“this coffee was developed too fast in the endothermic stage and
therefore I am tasting too much underdevelopment of proteins and sour
acids”. It makes it far less romantic and intimate an experience.
So
what does going to a musically active mindset do for me while cupping?
It provides simple imagery. I like to think of coffees as being
symphonies with the body being the bass and the acids being the high
strings. Nuances can fill the range in between as the rest of the
instrumentation, and harmony can resonate throughout my entire palette!
–Or not....
The
beauty and challenge in musical cupping is being able to appreciate
simple things. Can a body on a coffee be enjoyable if that’s really all
that the coffee offers? Sure! It’s a bass solo by a great bass player!
Can a duet between a bass player and a lone violinist sound harmonious
and complete without any other instruments? Sure! Can it fall apart if
the strings on that violin are out of tune or the bass player has only
been playing for a week? Sure! You get all these ranges of harmony and
possibilities of beauty when things like body, sweetness, and acids play
well together. Can an orchestra start off strong, lovely and elegant
then fall apart suddenly as a flutist falls out of her chair? Of course!
Balance and harmony are delicate things and it takes a solid core to
keep it together. The same goes for coffee nuances. They can be very
simple or they can be very complex, sometimes even both at once, but
this method is a mere simple tool to help me (personally) think of the
flavors and characteristics of coffee in a light that is a bit different
than what the books, websites, and user manuals teach you and makes it
unique to one’s self. I might not and probably will not speak of the
coffee verbally this way when it comes time for discussion, but it helps
me to silently construct my opinions on the offerings of that
particular sample while it’s on the table. It’s a framework that helps
me investigate and balance out the nuances which is comprised of a
simple relatable method which works personally for me. The bottom line
is to keep it as simple as you can, and break it down into bite sized
pieces. There is no absolute right or wrong with flavor perception. It’s
as unique as the individual who is evaluating the sample. Have fun with
it and make it your own!
Acidity
– This one is often a confusing, misconstrued, highly personally
opinionated category. In my head, I sometimes wish there was a double
tiered sliding scale for scoring this, one for intensity and another for
quality of that intensity. I HATE having to decide numerically what
acidity should get for a score merely by the pure presence of it. If the
acidity is massively intense, acrid and un-enjoyable as if one were
chewing on a battery, do I have to give it a high score for acidity? If I
don’t and give it a low score, the first response I might get from
people reading a cup report might be “this acidity and huge,
distracting, and ultra sour! Why the ^%$& did you only give it a 4
for acidity?!?” So with that said, what should a battery like, intensely
sour and uber acrid acidity get for a score? There isn’t, without
words, much room to negotiate this.
To
me, acidity can be both pleasantly present if kept in check or
pleasantly un-present if the body has enough going on to make you not
miss the energy of high sparklees. It can seem carbonated or it can seem
subdued. It can be subtle or it can be completely enjoyably missing. It
greatly depends on what else the bigger nuance picture reveals for
coloration. If I’m looking for a coffee from Brazil, for example, that
needs to have the biggest, most leather coated body imaginable with
little to no acidity in it as a base for my espresso blend, and I find
one that I love, what do I score the acidity on a cup report? 5? 7? 8?
The reason I love this coffee so much is for the giant body and severe
invisibility of the acids... but it has to receive a numeric score,
so......
Pleasant
acidities come in many shapes, sizes, forms, and volumes. They can be
quite fruity and citric, like an orange, grapefruit or lemon, or they
can be incredibly sweet and shaped of sugar like a red delicious apple
or an ice cold can of Coca Cola. Both are intense and dominant, but the
citric side tends to be tangy and tart and the refined sugar side tends
to be laser accurate and razor sharp. Both are quite intense and
potentially refreshing, but are made of completely different acids. Red
wine, white wine, vinegar, crisp, tart, intense, sour, acrid,
astringent, sharp, clean, fruity, unbearable, distracting, stabbing,
slicing, delicate, pinched – all of these are relatively common
descriptors of coffee acidity, and run the full gamut of differences in
association with each other. As above mentioned, there should almost be
two acidity tiers to evaluate, intensity and quality of nuance with an
extra point box just in case the scoring is a bit off. For example.
Proposed here is a new acidity scale, where on the left we have what is
currently in place, and at the right is the new version (this would
work for classifying the body as well). The proposed acid evaluated here
was vinegar. This goes to explain that vinegar would undoubtedly get a
high marking, a full 5 for intensity, but since it is an undesirable
nuance, the quality of evaluation gets one point and results in a total
score of 6, which to me sounds about right. The version on the left
merely tells you the acid level is high, but does NOT tell you whether
the acidity is good or bad. Just that it is high.
Body – From
the internet: “Body is the feeling that the coffee has in your mouth.
It is the viscosity, heaviness, thickness, or richness that is perceived
on the tongue. A good example of body would be that of the feeling of
whole milk in your mouth, as compared to water. Your perception of the
body of a coffee is related to the oils and solids extracted during
brewing.”
That
sums it up pretty well for me, but there is a lot more room to expand
on this. Body should have a direct relationship with the other
characteristics of the cup, but also not be afraid to back off in needed
to let other soloists take the stage if they possess more skill and
beauty. Poetic and unnecessary an explanation, I know, but what I’m
trying to say is that even coffees with the least amount of body can
still be great if some other characteristic (acidity or sweetness or
whatever else) is delightful and perhaps seductive enough to warrant
praise. If I come across a coffee from say, Mexico, and that coffee has
the lightest of light bodies with just a hint of citrus and black tea,
I’ll probably adore it for its refreshment nature, like water served
with lemon at a street side cafe, or a nice refreshing summer beer that
you can drink 20 of (not recommended) on your back porch. It might be
thin and seemingly dilute, but that’s exactly what makes that coffee
work. It’s to be evaluated by itself as well as part of the whole.
On
the other side of the coin, coffees can be equipped with bodies that
are so thick and dense that one can seem to float a quarter on top of it
without sinking. Bodies like this can work either for or against that
coffee. I’ve had coffees in the past that were all body and pretty much
nothing else and the only flavor note in that coffee was chocolate. I
seriously wanted to let this coffee cool so I could chug it as chocolate
milk. I loved it for that reason. It was thick, creamy, massive, and
delicious. I would score it a 10 if the body scoring section was
evaluated only on amount of body. Then I realized that there would be no
distinction or praise for this score of 10 if I drank a coffee that
resembled a glass of pond water and mud, which would probably also get a
10 if the scale were judged solely by presence of body. What exactly
should get evaluated to arrive at a score for body?? Back to the two
tier scoring system!! Here is a proposed version using the above
mentioned Mexico as an example. (The one with very little body, but was
refreshing as a swimming pool on a hot day)
The
score on the left would honest tell me to probably expect a big, full
body as an 8 is a great score, but for this particular example, I would
probably be mislead. The score on the right, also an 8, tells me that
the coffee had a very light body, but the balance of that body getting
full marks leads me to expect that there is a balanced intimacy in this
coffee that the body and acidity support as a whole. It assures me that
the light body is not at all lacking, but is actually appropriate and
harmonious with the rest of the cups offerings.







